There would be no negotiation. Swell would have to be moved right away. I wanted to beg and plead with the man, but I didn’t. I simply sighed and put my mask and fins back on to dive down and untie the extra lines and free the anchor. I mulled through the options of where I would move Swell. An hour later, though, Richard the ‘dockmaster’, came over to tell me that they’d found another place to squeeze me in!!
So I turned the engine over and motored Swell across to the opposite side of the marina. I re-hithced and lashed her there, moving in a semi-panic as the sun sunk lower and my chances for one last surf seemed to be growing slimmer. There was still so much to do!
Despite knowing that I was pushing it too late, with an outboard motor I’d never used…I sped off with an hour and half of light to spare. The engine seemed fine for the first ten minutes. I zoomed around to the leeward side of the island. But with only a half-mile to go, the outboard started to balk. It seemed to be loosing fuel? I pumped the fuel ball and willed my way that last few hundred yards to the pass. It died just as I neared the other boats anchored there. I tied to a friend’s boat and paddled out…
I cherished the clean warm water, the smiles of my friends, and the setting sun glowing through the waves faces even more than usual.
I clambored into the dinghy as dusk fell and the engine started up after a few pulls.
“I’ll be alright.” I told Aymeric as I putt away.
But it wasn’t okay. The engine died half way home. I pulled and pulled on the starting cord, but it wouldn’t go. There was enough light to make out a channel marker that I was drifting towards, so I rowed us in its direction and tied the bowline around it.
Hmmmm…I had no light, no tools, and the battery on my phone was blinking ‘low’. I wouldn’t be earning a ‘Preparation Badge’ for this mission. I gave it a few minutes and tried again. But deep down, just like I always had when the car broke down or my friends and I were lost somewhere, I felt happy, excited. It was now an adventure! I lay back against the pontoon and smiled. The surf had been so fun, the warm wind blew across my face, and above me stars began to pop out of the darkness.
I used the remaining bit of battery to call Jean Ives, the owner of the motor. “Okay, okay…I know where that is. I’ll come to get you as soon as I can…” he said.
Even with all the stress of packing and prepping for the whirlwind of a trip back to the U.S., I couldn’t have felt more content. Broken down in the middle of the lagoon, I stared skyward, breathed in the peace, and thanked the universe for a few hours where it was impossible to do anything but be exactly where I was.


















Small Things with Great LOVE
I’ll be back in the States through September!!…I DO regret the carbon cost in jet fuel it took to get here. So in the meantime, I’ll try to offset it a bit by sharing with you a few of my favorite organizations that are working hard to make the world a better place for all of us… I thank those putting energy into causes they believe in. Sometimes the world’s problems seem too overwhelming…I don’t even know where to start!!?!?! Until I learn to focus, i keep these words close at heart.
“We cannot all do great things, but we can do small things with great love.”–Mother Teresa
http://www.350.org/ 350.org wants you to knw why 350 is the most important number in the world…it’s what scientists say is the safe upper limit for carbon dioxide in the atmosphere and is working to raise global awareness about climate change and carbon levels and what we can do about it…
http://www.algalita.org/index.php Algalita Marine Research Foundation–An organization dedicated to researching and making us aware of the impact of plastic in our oceans.
http://www.s4cglobal.org/ Surfers for Cetaceans–A human voice for and defender of cetaceans worldwide…
http://www.saveourseas.org/saveourseas/aloha.html Save Ous Seas–Hawaii-based organization where fish huggers and fish hunters unite…what a miracle!
http://www.savethewaves.org/ Save the Waves Coalition–Protecting surf breaks and fighting for our oceans worldwide.
http://www.reefcheck.org/ Reef Check is am incredible network of divers and scientists around the world turning their passion for the reefs into a way to preserve, protect, and monitor them.
http://rozsavage.com/ Roz Savage is rowing around the world…seriously. An amazing woman and eco-hero!
http://www.surfaidinternational.org SurfAid International is an organization dedicated to the alleviation of human suffering through community-based health programs. What we surfers forget sometimes is that we are out playing in the sea while most of the world struggles to make it though each day…
http://www.survivalinternational.org/ A movement for tribal peoples. Save culture. Save diversity. Learn from and cherish the peoples who remember how to live in balance with our environment.
http://www.onepercentfortheplanet.org/en/ Businesses that give 1% of their profits to causes for the Earth, giving opens the door to receiving!!
And when the doom and gloom gets to you…sing along with this guy and you’ll surely feel better!
Also, please send suggestions of other groups doing good things I should know about, good quotes, or good You Tube videos that I should see on while in the land of information!