Small Things with Great LOVE

Sometimes we must let go and trust…

I’ll be back in the States through September!!…I DO regret the carbon cost in jet fuel it took to get here. So in the meantime, I’ll try to offset it a bit by sharing with you a few of my favorite organizations that are working hard to make the world a better place for all of us… I thank those putting energy into causes they believe in. Sometimes the world’s problems seem too overwhelming…I don’t even know where to start!!?!?! Until I learn to focus, i keep these words close at heart.    :)

“We cannot all do great things, but we can do small things with great love.”–Mother Teresa


http://www.350.org/ 350.org wants you to knw why 350 is the most important number in the world…it’s what scientists say is the safe upper limit for carbon dioxide in the atmosphere and is working to raise global awareness about climate change and carbon levels and what we can do about it…

http://www.algalita.org/index.php Algalita Marine Research Foundation–An organization dedicated to researching and making us aware of the impact of plastic in our oceans.

http://www.s4cglobal.org/ Surfers for Cetaceans–A human voice for and defender of cetaceans worldwide…

http://www.saveourseas.org/saveourseas/aloha.html Save Ous Seas–Hawaii-based organization where fish huggers and fish hunters unite…what a miracle!

http://www.savethewaves.org/ Save the Waves Coalition–Protecting surf breaks and fighting for our oceans worldwide.

http://www.reefcheck.org/ Reef Check is am incredible network of divers and scientists around the world turning their passion for the reefs into a way to preserve, protect, and monitor them.

http://rozsavage.com/ Roz Savage is rowing around the world…seriously. An amazing woman and eco-hero!

http://www.surfaidinternational.org SurfAid International is an organization dedicated to the alleviation of human suffering through community-based health programs. What we surfers forget sometimes is that we are out playing in the sea while most of the world struggles to make it though each day…

http://www.survivalinternational.org/ A movement for tribal peoples. Save culture. Save diversity. Learn from and cherish the peoples who remember how to live in balance with our environment.

http://www.onepercentfortheplanet.org/en/ Businesses that give 1% of their profits to causes for the Earth, giving opens the door to receiving!!

And when the doom and gloom gets to you…sing along with this guy and you’ll surely feel better!

Also, please send suggestions of other groups doing good things I should know about, good quotes, or good You Tube videos that I should see on while in the land of information!

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Posted in Captain Liz Clark and the Voyage of Swell | 1 Comment

brokedown bliss…

'By letting go, it all gets done." --Lao Tzu

There would be no negotiation. Swell would have to be moved right away. I wanted to beg and plead with the man, but I didn’t. I simply sighed and put my mask and fins back on to dive down and untie the extra lines and free the anchor. I mulled through the options of where I would move Swell. An hour later, though, Richard the ‘dockmaster’, came over to tell me that they’d found another place to squeeze me in!!

So I turned the engine over and motored Swell across to the opposite side of the marina. I re-hithced and lashed her there, moving in a semi-panic as the sun sunk lower and my chances for one last surf seemed to be growing slimmer. There was still so much to do!

Despite knowing that I was pushing it too late, with an outboard motor I’d never used…I sped off with an hour and half of light to spare. The engine seemed fine for the first ten minutes. I zoomed around to the leeward side of the island. But with only a half-mile to go, the outboard started to balk. It seemed to be loosing fuel? I pumped the fuel ball and willed my way that last few hundred yards to the pass. It died just as I neared the other boats anchored there. I tied to a friend’s boat and paddled out…

I cherished the clean warm water, the smiles of my friends, and the setting sun glowing through the waves faces even more than usual.

I clambored into the dinghy as dusk fell and the engine started up after a few pulls.

“I’ll be alright.” I told Aymeric as I putt away.

But it wasn’t okay. The engine died half way home. I pulled and pulled on the starting cord, but it wouldn’t go. There was enough light to make out a channel marker that I was drifting towards, so I rowed us in its direction and tied the bowline around it.

Hmmmm…I had no light, no tools, and the battery on my phone was blinking ‘low’. I wouldn’t be earning a ‘Preparation Badge’ for this mission. I gave it a few minutes and tried again. But deep down, just like I always had when the car broke down or my friends and I were lost somewhere, I felt happy, excited. It was now an adventure! I lay back against the pontoon and smiled. The surf had been so fun, the warm wind blew across my face, and above me stars began to pop out of the darkness.

I used the remaining bit of battery to call Jean Ives, the owner of the motor. “Okay, okay…I know where that is. I’ll come to get you as soon as I can…” he said.

Even with all the stress of packing and prepping for the whirlwind of a trip back to the U.S., I couldn’t have felt more content. Broken down in the middle of the lagoon, I stared skyward, breathed in the peace, and thanked the universe for a few hours where it was impossible to do anything but be exactly where I was.

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“Indecision may or may not be my problem!?”

A few days before my departure to the States,  Swell hovers happily over her favorite sand bar…

After far too much deliberation, I decided that one thing was certain: I didn’t want to start the next leg of my voyage in a hurry. Instead of rushing off in search of a safe place to leave Swell in the unfamiliar islands to the west, I arranged to once again leave Swell in Tahiti and hop on a plane a few days later…I asked around and found out that the cheap, city-owned marina had one slip available, so I quickly brought Swell over and slid her into the empty slot.

One of the other factors prodding me homeward was that my dinghy was literally falling to pieces. Four of the five valves were leaking despite my repeated patch jobs, plus the wooden floorboards were rotting and towing rings were all broken. Before starting the next adventure, I hoped to bring a new one back with me from California–something a bit smaller than my current ride. In prep for this swap out, I’d put up signs around the island looking for someone who wanted to trade me a 15hp outboard for my 25hp, in anticipation of the smaller dinghy.

So a Monsieur Jean Ives brought down his 15hp Yamaha for a test drive. We yanked off my 25hp and set his 15hp on my half-sunken dinghy.

“Keep it for the day to test it out,” he told me in French. “I’ll come by this evening and we can talk about the exchange.”

“Oui, parfait.” I agreed. The wind was lighter than it had been in weeks, so I plotted my surf escape/test drive of the 15hp engine for later that day. First, I dove and placed an extra stern anchor and tied my own back up lines to the sunken cement moorings that would hold Swell in place. Once Swell seemed sufficiently secured, I grabbed my board and slathered on some of my reef-friendly sunscreen, and piled into the dinghy. Just as I was ready to pull away, an older Tahitian man approached Swell.

“You’re in my slip.” He said. “I’m putting my boat back in the water right now and you’ll have to move right away.”

Organization was not the strong point at the city-operated marina, somewhere there must have been a miscommunication…?

All I could think about was getting to the pass…little beads of sweat poured down my cheeks as I looked mercifully back at the man…

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Decisions decisions…

Always good to look at your options from a different perspective...

I found myself in utter denial of my departure from French Polynesia. I seemed to just keep putting off the inevitable because I didn’t feel quite right about it…I wasn’t ready to leave. And how would I do everything I wanted to do in the next few months? I needed to fly home to finish my book project before October, make it to my girlfriends’ weddings, get a new dinghy, windlass motor, and chartplotter… But I didn’t want to rush through the next island groups looking for a safe place to leave Swell? Then I’d be stuck somewhere unsafe for hurricane season?…If there was one thing i’d learned, it was that sailing and rushing are like oil and water…but Swell was just getting into her sailing groove again!!? How would I…? I mulled, rolled the options over and over in my head. I woke thinking, went to sleep thinking, I was totally distracted by my dilemma…none of the options seemed to flow!?

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The Easiest Thing I Ever Fixed



Hand drawn pic of Swell by my lil' friend Herenui.



And so, after a deceptively strong cup of coffee aboard ‘Sea Level’, I bid Kent and Jimmy farewell. That was just the extra kick I needed to attack the ‘new’ leak. I’d been feeling an overall lack of passion for fixing things over the last month, and the new trickle of water had nearly sent me over the edge. All my friends on their way to the beach, and I was going to hang out with my leaky toilet!?! But with the buzz of caffeine as added inspiration, I dove into it ‘head’ first. Hee hee…

After a few minutes of assessment, I was delighted to find a minor leak from the ball valve joint! I went to the tool bin and grabbed a few crescent wrenches. On a normal day, I’d have to try at least two or three before getting the right one…but that day I grabbed exactly what I needed on the first go?! Huh?

I noticed that there were no lock washers on the nuts, so maybe that’s why they had slipped loose…so I fished into my little assorted goods box before pulling out the entire tool box and spare parts collection under my nav table. Alas, two lock washers that fit!?! Impossible?

I slipped them over the bolts, cranked on the nuts, and flushed the whole area with a few buckets of seawater with simple green and bleach. I dried the pump and under the web of hoses that run around the area. As I lifted the hoses, I saw that there was a gap at the base of the head. The same fiberglass runner that was oozing water from the other side butt up against the back of the head. It made perfect sense….I’d been heeled on my port side on the passage over and so the water from the leaky pump had probably been trickling over this little ledge and appearing over on the other side! My detective work was done! I gave the head a few flushes, and stuck my hand under the joint to feel for drips…dry! Fixed! The agony was over! And it was the easiest thing I could remember fixing in a very long time…Every now and then, life gives you a break.

After high-fiving Jimmy on the way, I was off to the beach…

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I No Want More Fixy Fixy!?

When all else fails, rainbows always make me feel better.

Swell’s bilge wasn’t dry for long. After a month or so afloat, a constant trickle of water coming from below the fuel tank could not be ignored. The galley sink drain had broken two weeks priors, sending seawater spilling in, but I fixed it right away and all the spillage would have long since dried?

There was virtually no access to the area from where the water could be seen leaking in. The fuel tank sat in the long lateral beam of fiberglass, and the water was trickling out from under the right corner. This butted up to bulkheads on either end, making for another fun go of detective work. My brain capacity and patience for another mysterious leak was at dangerously low levels. Between good byes and departure planning that little trickle was going…drip…drip…drip…like Chinese water torture on my mind…was this some kind of sick joke?!?!

On an interisland passage, I looked in the bilge to find it nearly full?! So it HAD to be figured out before I made a bigger trip…I’d seen that the head pump was leaking a little, but I could see no logical route for the water to take from there 7 feet aft to where I was seeing the water, plus it was ‘below’ that spot. Gravity is trustworthy right?

“Well, fix the toilet leak and then go from there. I can’t imagine it would be a fissure in the fiberglass, but I guess it’s possible?” Jimmy said. I felt a visceral surge through my spine at the thought of the latter part of his comment. I’d met Jimmy and Kent on ‘Sea Level’ the day before. They were more than fantastic—caring, generous, fun and ready to help. Not more than 2 minutes into a tour of Swell, Jimmy was down on the floor, analyzing the leak possibilities…

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Raa-Mau-Riri Swallows the Sun

Total eclipse of the heart...I mean, the sun :)

There's only one way to stare at the sun...the girls, stylin' in the 'eclipse glasses'.

The days flew by and all of a sudden it was July 11th. This was the day that astronomers and eclipse chasers around the world had been waiting for…the moon would pass directly over the sun and cast a shadow across the Earth to be seen for those anywhere along a tiny belt of the southern hemisphere between latitude 17 and 18 degrees South to witness. Lucky me, I just happened to be in the spot!

My friend Kepi picked me up at dawn. I climbed in the back of her truck and sped off with the rest of the crew to the north side of the island to catch the spectacle where we had the best chances for clear skies. The weather had been terrible of late, so we were happy to see the sun breaking through the gaps in the flow of overhead clouds.

The event began shortly after 7:30am. From behind the dark lenses of our 2-dollar ‘eclipse glasses’, the moon began to take a bite out of the sun. Slowly, the bright sun disappeared behind the black orb. First looked like popped basketball, then a wide, beaming smile, then a fingernail, and then only a teeny, itsy sliver of sun remained. The ambient light was reduced to an eerie, dusky golden-grey. The wind seemed chillier and for the darkest minutes, and everything seemed to slooooooooooooooooow dooooooooooown. The glowing ball then slowly reappeared on of the other side of the moon, the day warmed up, and everyone cheered and celebrated.

From navigation to fishing, farming and religion, celestial events were important in ancient Polynesian society. During an eclipse, it was believed that the god Raa-mau-riri had been so angered that he swallowed the sun. Lucky for humans, he must have realized that he’d just eaten a gigantic nuclear furnace and, shortly after, spit it out.

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Boom and Doom

Purpley dusk.

For a second I thought he was dead, lying there face up right below the boom in his sailing harness. I’d come out of the cabin from an attempt to rest to find him splayed there across the cockpit. It had to be nearly 3am.

“Nalu! Nalu!” I leapt over the wheel and shook him.

“What! What! Huh?” My crewmate sat up spouting.

“Oh thank God you’re alright! I thought you’d been knocked out by the boom!”

“No, I was just so tired…”It didn’t matter that he’d fallen asleep on watch as long as he was alive! I had already flashed to how I was going to tell his parents…

Neither of us had really slept all night. The seas and current were against us and we were caught in a shadow of shifty winds behind the approaching island. I’d get the sails set and lay down to rest and five minutes later they were flapping again. “Go down and try to rest for a while. You scared me wide awake!” I said. Before I could finish my sentence, he was flat again on the wet cushion, sound asleep. I hauled the mainsheet in tighter, put on my headphones, and watched the Sothern Cross sink under the western horizon.

******NOTE: I just answered a few questions for Liquid Salt, online Surf Magazine…to have a look go to:

http://www.liquidsaltmag.com/2010/07/liz-clark/

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Galley Grinds…

Now that I have my galley back, with fresh countertops and a new sink drain, I’m spending a bit more time trying to properly nourish myself. I’d been getting by eating cabbage salads and heavily buttered baguettes for way too long. Sadly, 85-90% of food eaten in Tahiti is imported and the vegetables grown locally are often loaded with pesticides, so between environmental, health, and price considerations…it’s not easy to eat in French Polynesia! The best way is to stick with the local fruits, vegetables that aren’t too sprayed, and fish ( although fish populations are severely dwindling here. Now fish are flown in from the outer islands to keep up with demand! Our poor oceans can’t keep up with all these hungry people!)

.

Papaya with plain yogurt almonds, dried blueberries, and honey...YUM.

Clean, simple, and good once you add my homemade salad dressing.

Poisson Cru=raw fish, frreshly sqeezed coconut milk, onions, lime and salt. The Tahitian staple, delicious!

Local tomatoes & green pepper, cheese, spicy olive oil, and basil from my plant!

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Carissa and Bethany Charge Teahupo’o

Carissa 'stepping-off' into the west bowl while Bethany waits her turn...

I heard a voice outside calling my name, and popped up to see Raimana and Tim and Eric in the familiar orange poti marara. “How’s it going? Are you safe? Everything okay?” Raimana asked.

I filled them in briefly on the boatyard complications and promised to see them in the lineup in the coming days…

The next morning the swell had come up…a LOT. I watched from the channel to for a while. The sea seemed extra full—lots of water moving and churning with a storm bump from the night before. The overcast sky made the chopped faces of the monsters look even meaner than usual. Then out came Raimana on a jet ski, Carissa Moore and Bethany Hamilton alongside. It was a bit too much for either of them to paddle, so they took turns getting towed in on the ski. Carissa was doing ‘step-offs’, where she actually jumped right off the racing ski into the face of the wave then standing up on the board. Bethany had to use the rope because of the fact that she only has one arm!? Most people know the harrowing saga of her shark attack on Kauai. To see the girls out there pushing themselves in those heavy waves filled me with joy. I was witnessing the new frontier of women’s surfing. I was proud of how far we’d come, and excited about where it’s going…

The next day was a bit smaller and more in control. I waited for the morning pack of 40 or so to dwindle before giving it a go. Bethany was out again–charging the sets, paddling in without fear. Having been absent from the ‘beast’ for a while, I was feeling pretty nervous. There was still a big, freak set every now and then that caught everyone inside. There I was with two arms and totally scared. Bethany was amazing! I had no idea how good she really was. I caught a few and felt more comfortable, but Bethany’s courage overwhelmed me.

It had been a long time since something had inspired me like she did that day. Not for a second did she seem to let having one arm slow her down–emanating pure determination and commitment. It reminded me that when someone wants something badly enough…when there are no mental blocks within yourself to getting where you want to go…when you believe so strongly in yourself that there is absolutely no question…almost anything is possible… Yeah Carissa! Yeah Bethany! Yeah to all the women who get out there and push themselves in whatever facet or venue that may be!! It always starts with one small step…

Bethany, fearless and ready for more!

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