Monthly Archives: February 2009

Float My Boat

It’s been hot–really really really HOT. I feel like an ant under a magnifying glass in this sun. The seasons shifted while I was away. The trades no longer dissipate the intense tropical heat”¦ instead it lingers about you like you’re constantly standing in hot soup. By 8am it’s blazing and it doesn’t let up [...]
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K.O. In Round Two

Round two started off all wrong. I mistimed the paddle out, taking 3 or four in the impact zone and found myself way down at the ‘first crack’. I caught a fat, walled right and then paddled against the current down to the reef. Only just arriving to the peak, my arms already burned. I [...]
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Just Can't Get Enough

Anna and I managed to make it out between sets that morning. Once outside, we sat wide where we’d be safe enough from the looming destructo sets, but still able to claw our way into the waves that peaked too far right for the guys sitting deeper on the reef. I stroked into one right [...]
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Generous Friends in the Right Places

“We’ve got two 6′10″s you guys can ride?” With just over a week to departure and still too many unchecked list items, I started looking at my options. Then call from my dad sealed the deal”¦ “I have to fly east on business, if you stay a little longer I will get to see you before you [...]
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A Taste of Cali Part 1

After shuffling through U.S. customs and immigration, I was dumped out at LAX ‘International Arrivals’ where I quickly realized where I was: America, well, Los Angeles rather. Quickly caught up in a cold swarm of hurried people yelling English into their hands-free devices, I looked left and saw a Starbucks less than 50 yards away. [...]
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Will it Overripen? A Few Environmental Observations

Though the French Polynesian fairytale is still ripe and glittering, modern ways of life are visually taking their toll here. I get the feeling that people think they are so far away from everything here in the middle of the vast Pacific ocean, that environmental problems will affect them. But imported goods flood in everyday. [...]
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