Monthly Archives: April 2009

Eight Tahitian "Dads"

By lizzy | Published: April 30, 2009
The next morning the engine rumbled beneath my feet as Swell and I made our way slowly south through the lagoon between the green and red markers. It was time”¦ there was swell on the way and after almost a year of surfing Polynesia’s reef passes, the moment had come to test my skills at [...]
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All Part of the Miracle

By lizzy | Published: April 21, 2009
And then one afternoon, when my faith in the male gender had plummeted to an abysmal low, I turned in and saw Bali talking to a guy on the inside. He was the best surfer in the water. He took his waves but wasn’t greedy. He looked at me as he paddled by and said, [...]
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Limited Resources and the Human Predicament

By lizzy | Published: April 14, 2009
At some point during the last few years of empty or mannered line-ups and my endless surf blessings, I’d lost the drive to fight this type of crowd. It ruins surfing for me. Here we were in this drop-dead gorgeous place where dreams linger on after you open your eyes”¦ where the giving spirit of [...]
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"The Test Never Ends"-Bali Strickland

By lizzy | Published: April 10, 2009
Bali Strickland arrived from Oz smiling and in full form, ready for anything Swell and I could throw at him. As chance would have it the surf was up, the anchorage was a sandy 25 feet, and the sun was shining between puffy white clouds that burst with rainbows over the stunning black-green backdrop of [...]
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Sailboat or Submarine?

By lizzy | Published: April 7, 2009
The passage got worse before it got better. The wind went into fitful gusts then died completely and shifted 180 degrees about 25 miles out. We then entered a wall of water–one of the thickest downpours I have ever witnessed. It was a rain was so heavy I couldn’t see 100 feet in any direction. [...]
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