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Monthly Archives: May 2009
Trust the King
There is MUCH more energy on the reef this morning. Its thunder is like a constant itch. I can’t focus. I’m scared again. I want to go, but I don’t. I want to catch a big one, but I don’t. The jet skis buzz by and a flash orange boat loads up across the way [...]
Posted in Captain Liz Clark and the Voyage of Swell Tagged chopes, surfing, Tahiti, Teahupo'o 3 Comments
No "Poo" in Teahupo'o
The thundering sound on the reef made it impossible to sleep. I tossed and turned, fearing the fear I already knew I would feel during my first session. After all, it was Teahupoo*! In my mind, it was so thick and punishing and frightening and reefy and everything scary about a wave except for ‘cold’ [...]
Posted in Captain Liz Clark and the Voyage of Swell Tagged chopes, surfing, Tahiti, Teahupo'o 2 Comments
Adrift
A few mornings later I stared intently at my computer screen in the belly of Swell, under deadline to finish a photo caption piece for Patagonia’s new story-telling internet forum, the Tin Shed. I heard a strong gust of wind followed by a squall rain but in my intent to finish the piece, I didn’t [...]
When I See a Dinghy Fly
And so I decided to have a look around the parts of Tahiti I had yet to explore with Swell now floating. As usual, I knew exactly where the waves were, but the chart book wasn’t all that clear about the anchorages. I made circles around the deep, unfamiliar bay until I spotted some yellow [...]
Teahupo'o Fog