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Author Archives: lizzy
Better Must Come
A few days after the Napoleon breakdown, I went to talk at the elementary school in the nearby village, like I’ve been doing at various stops over the last few months. I give a presentation about plastic pollution its effect on marine life and use my sailing trip to help explain where [...]
The Great Napoleon Breakdown
That same week I spent hanging out with the fishes under Swell, I watched locals return day after day to fish the same spot in the reef. I could see them hauling up Napoleon wrasses. This great wrasse is an instrumental reef species, which can grow to nearly 400 lbs! One of the [...]
The Coral Question…
I’m back! Hope you all had a great Thanksgiving!! The swell was running a few days late, leaving me plenty of time to spend with my underwater neighbors. The coral is alive just here below Swell. I made a mooring with a piece of chain wrapped carefully around the bottom of [...]
Posted in Captain Liz Clark and the Voyage of Swell Tagged climate change, coral, coral reefs, freediving, reefs, sea level rise 6 Comments
Gone Sailing…Hang with Thich
I’m on a passage…not sure when I’ll find the world wide web again, so until then, I’m leaving you to ponder my favorite quotes from Thich Nhat Hanh’s early journals in Fragrant Palm Leaves: “Clinging to what you have learned is worse than not learning it in the first place.” “Let compassion [...]
Go to the Places That Scare You.
Renown for it’s sharky waters, I find myself pulling my feet up on my board during sunset surfs in this region…During another bout of bad weather, I was lucky enough to be able to tie to a charter mooring right in the middle of a pass, cozy and protected from nearly all wind directions… [...]
Rock, rock, rock, and roll…
A limerick or poem to describe three days of an unexpected storm front while at anchor… there once was a captain named Lizzy her hair turned greasy and frizzy she couldn’t wash it cause the boat rocked and tossed it so now she’s both stinky and dizzy… Wind has swung [...]
The Great Shark in the Sky
Matai’s presence was commanding. He towered over me upon introduction by ‘Auntie Mary’, a local friend I’d made on the outskirts of the atoll. It wasn’t only his height and solid, muscular girth but his staid demeanor. He looked like a Puamoutu version of Hulk Hogan. “Matai is our local weatherman,” Auntie Mary said. [...]
Posted in Captain Liz Clark and the Voyage of Swell Tagged copra, milky way, Puamoutu people Leave a comment
More to the Ciguatera Mystery…
Arriving at an atoll farther east, I brought my empty water bottles ashore and asked a local at the quay if he knew where I could fill them…He pointed me to the town hall building across the street where there was a tank with rainwater. “And do you know which fish are safe [...]




Long hours in paradise…